CHINA

Country Overview:

“Love the food, hate the government”

I arrived in China in May 2013 and left August 2020. I taught English for awhile, did my master’s of politics & foreign policy at Tsinghua University, worked for a year at China Today, and then two years at Xinhua News Agency. I spent most of my time in Beijing, but also traveled to Shanghai, Wuhan, Inner Mongolia, Shenzhen, Panjin, Guangzhou, Tianjin, Qingdao, Xi’an, Sanya, Macau, Taiwan, and Hong Kong.


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Banana Man // Sanya

My friends who live in Sanya both work for a photography company and they needed to test out their new gear. So I suggested I buy a banana costume and we go to a street market to take pics and film a music video — which is exactly what we did. My friend is working on editing the video, so that will be posted when it’s finished. Chinese people laughed when seeing me in costume and little kids kept shouting “BANANA!”

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Still In Beijing

Despite a government notice only suspending visas for a period of 1 month from March 30, Cambodia has yet to resume visa services. As such, I’m stuck in Beijing until the foreseeable future. My apartment is empty, my bags are packed except for gym shorts, a tank top, and a few t-shirts, and I finished my job on May 1. I have nothing to do. My only course of action is to wait until June 1 and see if countries in SE Asia open up. I’m on day 88 of quarantine and without a day job, I am slowly losing my mind.

Gyms in Beijing are still closed. Awesome.

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Travel Chess Game

With T-minus 19 days until my last working day at Xinhua, I’m working on sorting out my exit plan. Besides trying to figure out flights, when I asked my boss what documents I need to submit before I quit and for me to receive my social insurance money, he said, “It’s still too early.” Umm, ok?

Ultimately, the plan is to get to Singapore to be with my girlfriend. However, Singapore has suspended short-term travel passes (tourist visas) until further notice. The government has been adamant that they aren’t in a lockdown, but have implemented a “circuit breaker.” Hey Singapore, call it what you want to call it, but when you close off the borders, shut down bars, restaurants can only do take out, public gatherings are banned, people can’t go outside after a certain time, and the airport is closed, you’re in lockdown.

So as of now, Singapore is out of the question. Before shutting down, Singapore had closed itself off to people who had been in certain countries for the past two weeks (including China), so even when Singapore opens up, I think they’ll revert to that policy. As such, I need to get out of Beijing. The tricky thing is trying to only spend two weeks in a foreign country before heading to Singapore to avoid paying a ton for a hotel and living expenses. But without any notice on when Singapore will open, it’s a gamble. If I stay in Beijing in my already paid for apartment, and Singapore opens, I’ll have to fly out and do two weeks in a foreign country before I can enter. Or, on May 1, I can immediately fly to a foreign country, but I might end up having to spend more than two weeks there waiting for Singapore to open.

Options at the time of this writing are:

  • Thailand will resume flights on April 18, but I think they’ll still implement a COVID-19 test signed by a doctor and not issued more than 72 before my flight, plus proof of insurance of minimum $100,000 that also covers COVID-19. After calling several travel insurance companies, I discovered that COVID-19 wasn’t covered. Plus, I’m not sure I can just walk into a hospital in Beijing and get a COVID-19 test.

  • Cambodia has suspended all visas until April 30.

  • Hong Kong is open to people who have only been in Mainland China for the past two weeks, but many countries include HK as part of China, so even spending two weeks there wouldn’t help me out.

  • Malaysia just prolonged their lockdown for another two weeks.

  • Vietnam has suspended visas for foreigners until further notice.

  • Macau says that residents of Mainland China can visit. I have a Mainland China resident permit. I called immigration, and they said that they meant to say “citizens” and would not accept anyone that doesn’t have a Mainland China, HK, or Taiwan passport. Well, change the wording on the website then…

  • Indonesia is closed to foreigners until further notice

  • The Philippines is closed to anyone who has been in China for the past two weeks. Plus, I don’t want to get shot on the street by Duterte’s thugs if I accidentally break quarantine rules.

So at this point, much like the response to every other question I have these days, all I can do is “WAIT.”

HERE is the website I’ve been using to track border policies. Between trying to figure all this out, I still need to submit documents to Xinhua, deep clean my apartment so I can get my deposit back from landlord, breakdown my workout machine and find someone who wants it, plan a going-away party, buy a plane ticket, get a COVID-19 test, buy travel insurance, donate my remaining clothes, and all the other odds and ends that come with leaving a foreign country after seven years. And all this while Beijing is still in a semi-lockdown. I’m just looking forward to leaving China so I can go to the gym again.

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Where There’s a Will, There’s a Way

(有志者事竟成)

Having just finished three weeks of traveling in Southeast Asia due to the extended Spring Festival holiday, I was eager to return to Beijing to get back into my routine, despite the ongoing fight against COVID-19. My first priority was getting back to the gym.

After unpacking, a quick lunch and a shower, I put on my gym clothes, strapped on my Nikes, and scootered through the quiet streets of Beijing. Upon arriving at my gym, I noticed that the lights were off, and a lock was placed over the double doors. With a heavy heart, I approached and saw a sign that read: “According to the regulations of the relevant departments of Beijing Municipality, to prevent and control the epidemic, all sports business units and public fitness venues are closed.”

Frustrated but eager to find a way to workout, I went home and called multiple gyms around the city. “Sorry, we’re waiting for the notice to re-open” was the common response. So, like many people around China dealing with the epidemic, I did some workouts at home. Pushups, situps, jumping jacks (which I’m sure my downstairs neighbor didn’t appreciate) and stretches. But I knew this wouldn’t suffice over an extended period of time. I needed a better solution. 

Living in the hutongs, my mind immediately thought about the brightly colored (usually blue and yellow) public workout equipment strewn across the city. I visited two before I finally found the holy grail of public workout equipment at Qingnianhu Park, just above the second-ring road.

Greeting the baoan at the gate with a smile under my N95 mask, I asked if there was a fitness area here. He said yes, and I asked if it was sufficient. He shrugged and said, “well, it’s not small.” I had to see for myself. He took my temperature, gave me a thumbs up for wearing shorts, and I made my way into the park. After crossing a bridge and nodding at a number of masked Chinese running past me, I finally saw the brightly colored equipment. Parallel bars, ab machines, pullup bars, monkey bars, a tricep dip machine, I couldn’t believe my eyes. This was the greatest outdoor fitness area I had ever seen.

For the past few days, each morning, I’ve gone to the park to workout and what early morning workout isn’t complete without elderly ladies stretching and gossiping with each other. Although we haven’t made it to a first-name basis, they’ve been kind enough to keep an eye on my jacket while I run around the lake and compliment me on my ability to brave the weather in shorts. I spoke with one of the ladies at the park, and she said: “Even though I’m 55, I’m not nervous about the virus. I come here every day to stretch, walk, and talk with my friends.” When asked what she is doing to keep busy, she said: “I cook at home every day! I like to make new dishes.”

I’ve always admired the tenacity and dedication Chinese people have to staying fit. Whether it’s the old ladies dancing together in public squares, or young Chinese going for a run on the streets, people in China are finding positive ways to deal with the current situation. Even despite the ongoing COVID-19 epidemic, the park I went to had numerous people running, stretching, working out, or simply taking a walk to enjoy the cold, but beautiful morning.

The ongoing epidemic might have impacted restaurants, local businesses, and offices. However, Chinese people’s optimism still remains, both in the hope of winning the fight against the coronavirus and in continuing to live normal lives despite the changes in the capital. I also spoke with a mother who was exercising with her son, and she said: “It’s safer to stay at home, but it’s important to get out of the house and have some fun.” The boy, who told me his English name was Kevin, said: “I like parks. But now we just need to wear masks to come here.”

Despite the virus, the cold, or the recent snow in the capital, Chinese are still determined to stay fit and stay positive, and its thanks not only to the baoan for doing temperature & mask checks at the gate, but also the government for keeping the parks open. They offer respite from the many hours spent at home and a way for people to stay healthy, even if you have to share a machine with an elderly lady in a puffy down jacket.

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Packing To Leave

I have 38 days until I leave, and I’ve already started gutting my apartment, selling off small things, and de-constructing my IKEA furniture so I can sell that too. It’s weird being in an apartment that now echoes when I speak.

I just bought my 2nd suitcase on Taobao the other day, and I now need to pack seven years of my life in China into two suitcases and a carry-on. Packing may sound simple, but it poses its own challenges, especially since I’m looking to move to SE Asia, I am only allowed 23kg in 1 suitcase. Lucky me, I get to pay for a 2nd suitcase. Thankfully it’s hot down there, so I won’t need to pack any winter clothes. I feel like a girl having to decide which shoes to keep and which ones to part with.

I’m still working from home and no foreseeable “return to office” date in sight. Gyms are still closed, as are schools. China just closed its borders to foreigners and limited the number of flights domestic and foreign airlines can make, so hopefully, that will curb the number of “imported” cases, and we can get back to normal. I feel like I have so much to do over the next six weeks, such as get all my paperwork in order, close bank accounts, go to the dentist, sell all my stuff, have my apartment inspected by landlord to get my deposit back, among a myriad of other things.

The other problem I’m facing is that I can’t get to my intended destination of Thailand or Singapore. Countries around the world have either closed borders entirely or won’t allow anyone who has been to China in the past two weeks. As such, the only countries I found that had no flight restrictions or quarantine measures for people who have been to China are Cambodia, the Congo, and Zambia. My plan is to find a country I can fly to, stay there for two weeks, and then I will have more options. Ultimately, I need to get to Singapore, so I’m just waiting for them to open up their borders, but since they just closed down all entertainment venues for a month, prospects aren’t looking too hot.

Trying to plan my permanent departure from China amidst an on-going pandemic that started in China is not ideal. I feel stressed, anxious, excited, and relieved to be leaving after so many years. My planned date of departure is May 4, with my last working day on May 3. I'm not spending any more time here than I need to. Hopefully, the world gets a handle on the virus over the next month, which will ensure a smoother “transition” from China onto the next chapter of my life.

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Beijing Amid The Coronavirus Epidemic

  • Gyms and all fitness centers / sports-related venues are all closed until further notice

  • Movie theaters, KTVs, and tourism-related areas within the city are all closed until further notice

  • Some bars and restaurants are open, and some do get busy since everyone is itching to get out of their house, but many restaurants are only providing take-out

  • Temperature checks are everywhere. Every park you go to, restaurant, residential community -- they all take your temperature with a little temp-gun

  • Residents have all been issued a flimsy paper "entry-exit" card with your address written on it. To enter the hutongs, you must present this card, verify that you live at the address, get your temp taken, and then you are allowed in. Tables are set up at these street "checkpoints," and two workers stop you before entering

  • Packages are still shipping from online sales, but it's taking much longer than usual

  • Everyone seems to be in limbo concerning when things will open back up and when people will go back to the office (most people are working from home). We are all waiting for the official "government notice," which will come based on criteria that no one is sure of. Many are guessing that it will require at least two weeks of no new infections before things start opening back up.

  • The virus is the main focus of conversation

  • EVERYONE is wearing a mask, and many places require them. If I want to go into a 7-11, I need a mask. Taking a taxi, mandatory mask. Picking up my take-out, mask. Oddly enough, despite the ubiquitous necessity, most places seem to be out of masks.

  • Couriers and food deliverymen are no longer allowed to go inside buildings and knock on your door. You must go down to the street to pick stuff up

  • Restaurants and residential areas have pesticide-like tanks filled with Dettol or other bacteria-killing sprays, and they regularly spray all the tables, stairs, handrails, doors, and floors

  • Working from home seems like the ideal time to travel and work abroad, but many countries have a "if you have been in China within the past two weeks, you are not permitted entry" -- so traveling is out of the question

  • Pharmacies now require an ID and other information if you buy cold or fever medicine. They also put a table in the entrance, and you cannot go inside; instead, you tell the lady what you want, and she'll get it for you.

Overall, I think the general feeling after three weeks of quarantine is that people are bored, frustrated that there is no definitive "time" to when things will go back to normal, and still a bit anxious about getting infected. Many people wear surgical gloves out in public along with a mask. When will it end? Who knows... Am I, along with most people in the city, ready to return to normal life in the capital? Absolutely

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Taobao Delivery Delayed

Got this message when I tried to buy something on Taobao. Wuhan might be on complete lockdown, but Beijing isn’t much better. Gyms are closed, deliveries are on hold, flights in and out of China are hit or miss (most are temporarily suspended until the end the of March or April), only half of the restaurants are open and able to deliver food, and most malls are only open until 6 or 7 pm (with many of the stores inside closed).

Currently working from home until I receive notice that I need to go back to the office, which who knows when that will be. I’d like to go travel and work from home from somewhere else, but I don’t know when I need to be back and not sure if I’d have to do a quarantine upon arrival — which would defeat the point of leaving anyway.

This is not how I thought I’d be spending my final months in China, but then again, it’s a fitting way to end my 7 year relationship with this country.

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Back in Beijing

…and not happy about it. Came from 30+ degree weather to -2. It snowed a few days ago, so there is still snow on the ground mixed with frozen dirty slush. My gym is closed, as are the 20 other gyms I called this morning. When asked when they would reopen, I was told: “We are closed until further notice.”

Half of the restaurants usually available for delivery have been removed from the food delivery apps, and small shops, like places for phone screen protectors, small vegetable shops, and other stores are closed. Granted, it is the weekend before life in the capital is supposed to officially resume work on the 10th, but as of now, Beijing is quiet and boring.

I've been told to continue working from home until further notice. I decided to fly back to China from Bangkok after three weeks of traveling, but now, I wish I had stayed abroad.

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China's Development

Here is an article I wrote about China’s “developing country” status and what it will take for China to become a developed country in the future

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Chinese Banks

Chinese banks are just as bad as U.S. DMVs. They are slow, anal about paperwork, no one is in a good mood, and no matter what you went there to do, there’s about 15 steps that need to be taken to get it done. I can order laundry detergent and donuts to my house in 15 minutes using only an app, but exchanging currency takes well over an hour. Fix the system, China, it’s broken.

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Books I Read in 2019

Since I work in news and a lot of the writing I do is non-fiction, all the books I read this year were fiction. I thoroughly enjoyed reading all of them and yes, I read 3 Murakami books this year and loved them all. Will definitely be reading more of his work in 2020. I’ve also made a goal to read 20 books next year, 15 fiction and 5 non-fiction. I’ve written a review for all of these books which can be found here. Any recommendations for both genres are welcome!

*Most disappointing book I read this year was The Plague. Was expecting something more exciting given the premise, but didn’t enjoy it as much as I thought I would

** Toughest book to read was Kafka’s collection of short stories

  1. Fatherland - Robert Harris

  2. The Chrysalids - John Wyndham

  3. Empire of Dragons - Valerio Massimo Manfredi

  4. South of the Border, West of the Sun - Haruki Murakami

  5. Dune - Frank Herbert

  6. The Outsider - Albert Camus

  7. Norwegian Wood - Haruki Murakami

  8. Dune Messiah - Frank Herbert

  9. One Day In The Life Of Ivan Denisovich - Alexander Solzhenitsyn

  10. The Gilt Kid - James Curtis

  11. The Sound Of Waves - Yukio Mishima

  12. Money: A Suicide Note - Martin Amis

  13. Slaughterhouse-Five - Kurt Vonnegut

  14. Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? - Philip K. Dick

  15. Rendezvous With Rama - Arthur C. Clarke

  16. The Plague - Albert Camus

  17. The Dog Stars - Peter Heller

  18. Anthem - Ayn Rand

  19. The Metamorphosis & Other Short Stories - Franz Kafka

  20. 1Q84 - Haruki Murakami

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